Meet Cantabria’s new Spanish chef, bringing dishes from Southern Spain

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MANILA, Philippines – At The Westin Manila, chef Álvaro Romero-abreu Raya, born and raised in Cádiz, southern Spain, brings with him a seasoned resume and a deep culinary philosophy.

The hotel’s rooftop Spanish restaurant Cantabria by Chef Chele Gonzalez introduces Álvaro as its new Chef de Cuisine as of May, bringing his heritage and Michelin-starred experience from Spain’s coasts to the heart of Ortigas.

From law school to ladles

Before the kitchen, Álvaro spent most of his time in law school. But halfway through his studies, he turned in his textbooks and traded them for pots and pans, choosing a life that brought him back to his first love: cooking with his family.

“I’ve always felt connected to food,” he shared. “My earliest memories were in the kitchen with my grandmother, with both my parents. Cooking always felt like home.”

Álvaro brings his creativity to the fine-casual Spanish restaurant, having trained and worked in some of Spain’s most prestigious kitchens, including the Research and Development team of Mugaritz in San Sebastián, a staple on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list with two Michelin stars to its name.

His culinary journey started in Cádiz and eventually took him across the Spanish map: from working as Head Chef at Restaurante Sonámbulo, to Abantal in Sevilla, and earlier as sushiman at Mau Mau Bistro Oriental. His formative years also included stints at La Salgar in Gijón and an internship at Taberna El Alabardero in Sevilla. His career highlights also include La Salgar (1 Michelin star) in Asturias and Abantal (1 Michelin star) in Seville.

But for Manila, he’s going back to his traditional roots; his home.

“We’ve created a menu that can make people feel like they’re staying in Spain without staying in Spain.”

Álvaro has been in the Philippines for over three months, snagging The Westin Manila stint after meeting chef Chele Gonzalez in Spain by chance. The two chefs from different areas of Spain understood each other right away — collaborating over a shared vision that Spanish food can be creative yet still rooted in tradition.

Cantabria, evolved

Chef Álvaro’s southern Spanish roots infuse warmth and earthiness into Cantabria’s evolving menu, showcasing refined seafood, comfort food staples, and elevated appetizers.

The Ostra Manzana y Lima-Limón is fresh oyster with apple foam and lemon-lime sorbet; an amuse-bouche that instantly awakens the palate. It hits first with fruity brightness, followed by the clean, briny salinity of the oyster. Like a mignonette reimagined, it’s both playful and refreshing, and sets a bright and light tone for the night.

The Tartaleta de Ikura y Wagyu is a one-bite treat; the dainty and crispy tartlet carries a punch of smokiness and saltiness; the former coming from soft wagyu and the latter from the ikura on top (the truffle flavor was not so prominent).

The Tartar de Salmón con Vieiras y Gazpachuelo de Jalapeños y Coco is salmon tartare with torched scallops, jalapeño emulsion, and coconut cream; an easy favorite.

It’s a creamy, modern ceviche with a tropical twist — the salmon is fresh and rich, mellowing the fruity-acidic hit of the gazpachuelo (a cold emulsion soup) made from jalapeño and coconut. There’s a slight, lingering heat from the jalapeno that doesn’t overpower, but highlights the buttery fish and the slightly sweet and creamy coconut broth.

The torched scallops were also sweet, plump, and succulent (I just wish there were more of them)! The play of textures from the crunchy onion slices and pickled radish added balance to each bite.

The Guiso de Maganos en su Tinta con Patatas en Texturas is Spain’s baby squid ink stew with potatoes in textures; it’s comfort food, Spanish style.

This dish had soul: deep, earthy, and comforting. The stew reminded me of adobong pusit, but without the vinegar sharpnes; more on savoriness. The baby squid was tender with zero chewiness, and the variety of potato textures (crispy, creamy, chunky) added to the experience. It’s the kind of dish you’d crave on a rainy day, and is typically enjoyed with rice in Spanish households, chef Chele said,

The Rodaballo a la Brasa was also the star of the show: grilled turbot with green herb salad. The turbot fish is flown in from Cantabria and is served table-side after being hand-grilled for fifteen minutes — a meticulous process that locks in its natural juices.

The result is soft, flaky flesh with a buttery texture and clean finish. The skin, emulsified with olive oil, was gelatinous in the best way (packed with collagen!) and packed with salty, fatty, and slightly acidic goodness. The seasoning was minimal (just olive oil, vinegar, and salt), which allows the fish to shine.

The Jarrete de Ternera is slow-cooked veal shank with mashed potatoes and vegetables; a hearty and comforting traditional stew with fall-off-the-bone meat that arrives lacquered in a rich demi-glace. There’s a hint of star anise in the sauce; paired with velvety mashed potatoes, it’s a rustic dish that feels premium.

Desserts include Sobao Pasiego, the traditional Cantabrian cake with berry coulis and cheese ice cream; and Chocolate, Calabaza y Pistacho, hot chocolate soufflé, calabaza-vanilla toffee, and pistachio ice cream.

Cantabria is the only Spanish restaurant in Metro Manila that has Gallery By Chele’s chef Chele Gonzalez’s name attached to it, the creative culinary director and consultant who hails from the coastal region of northern Spain.

Known for its “seafood, creative tapas, comfort meats, and traditional Spanish favorites,” Cantabria is located at the roof level of The Westin Manila, San Miguel Avenue corner Lourdes Drive, Ortigas Center, Mandaluyong. – Rappler.com

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